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Dr Jared Vagy: Pro Clinic on Climber Injuries, Rehab, and Prevention
Manage episode 419735716 series 3321315
In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Vagy covers the most common climber injuries, rehab, and prevention, including:
- Frequent shoulder injuries
- Simple exercises to strengthen the shoulder, build range-of-motion, and properly warm up before a session
- Why the elbow is a 'dumb joint'
- How to perform a simple self-assessment to determine what type of elbow issue you're having, and how to address it
- Lumbrical injury, and why it's unique to climbers
- Top 3 finger injuries (and which one now holds the top spot)
- The only proven warmup protocol to help prevent finger injury
- Why capsulitis has been on the rise in today's hard training culture
- What to do when you hear the dreaded 'pop' of a pulley
- Pulley rupture self-assessment, treatment, and recovery timelines
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The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to PhysiVantage. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
-
Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):
patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
-
Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @theclimbingdoctor, and check out Jared's website, https://theclimbingdoctor.com, for tons of free resources.
-
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, with post-production support by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
-
The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.
136 episoder
Manage episode 419735716 series 3321315
In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Vagy covers the most common climber injuries, rehab, and prevention, including:
- Frequent shoulder injuries
- Simple exercises to strengthen the shoulder, build range-of-motion, and properly warm up before a session
- Why the elbow is a 'dumb joint'
- How to perform a simple self-assessment to determine what type of elbow issue you're having, and how to address it
- Lumbrical injury, and why it's unique to climbers
- Top 3 finger injuries (and which one now holds the top spot)
- The only proven warmup protocol to help prevent finger injury
- Why capsulitis has been on the rise in today's hard training culture
- What to do when you hear the dreaded 'pop' of a pulley
- Pulley rupture self-assessment, treatment, and recovery timelines
-
The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to PhysiVantage. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
-
Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):
patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
-
Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @theclimbingdoctor, and check out Jared's website, https://theclimbingdoctor.com, for tons of free resources.
-
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, with post-production support by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
-
The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.
136 episoder
Alla avsnitt
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1 Coach Karly Rager: How to Plan, Prep, and Perform on your Next Climbing Trip 1:43:44
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1 Magnus Midtbø: How to Improve Indoors, Are Kneepads Aid, and His Insane Training Plan 1:09:12
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1 Road To V8 with Nate Drolet: Winter Training Plan 1:31:10
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1 Connor Herson: Trad Phenom, 5.15 Without Hangboarding, and the Value of 'Easy' Days 1:22:51
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1 Road To What's Next with Eric Hörst: Build a Pyramid, Climb V8, or both? 1:11:07
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1 Adam Ondra: New Mega Projects, Comp Retirement, Kneepad Hot Takes, and is Terranova V17? 58:27
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1 Reflecting on 4 Years of Finger Strength Tests, Big Sends, Epic Adventures... and the Journal That I'm Using To Log It All 18:09
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1 Davis Ngo: Struggling with Progress, Overcoming Setbacks, and Finding Joy in the Community 1:16:34
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1 Fitz Cahall: Creating a Life of Adventure and Purpose 1:17:25
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1 Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Celebrating Big Sends, First Naked Ascents, Vegas Climbing, and More Foot Stuff 59:21
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1 Will Bosi: Sending four V17s, Simple Training for Power and Endurance, 5.15d / 9c+ Goals, the Problem with Downgrading 1:38:51
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1 Dr. Tyler Nelson: Pro Clinic on Building Endurance for Bouldering and Sport Climbing 45:27
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