Armenia: Repurposing Old Techniques

D’Amato & Szabo: Wine Thieves

In this third episode focused on the re-nascent wine industry in Armenia, the Wine Thieves get into a deep and detailed conversation about ancient and recent techniques applied to the wealth of autochthonous grapes in the country. Joined by guests Artak Gabrielyan, chief winemaker at the Armenian National Agrarian University and lecturer at the EVN Wine Academy, and Jean-Paul Berger, German-born but Armenian tradition-obsessed winemaker at the historic Voskevaz winery in Aragatsotn region, Sara and John delve into the fascinating history and practical applications of karas, Armenia's millennia-old clay amphora.
Caucasian oak and its use for barrel making also enters the discussion, including the similarities with, and differences between it and American white oak and European species, as well as the local grape varieties that are best suited to fermenting and ageing in karas and/or indigenous oak. We speculate on the "Kahkani method", the equivalent to appassimento in Italy, originally used to preserve grapes for eating during cold Armenian winters. At what point did someone think of turning partially dried grapes into wine? Did the Greeks, and later the Italians, learn this technique from the Armenians?
And lastly in a far-too-rare segment, the Thieves taste and discuss a thoroughly delicious bottle of Voskehat, the Queen of Armenian white varieties from the Vayots Dzor region in the volcanic Armenian Highlands, and compare and contrast two examples of the country's most important red variety, Areni. Grab a glass of either, or both, (if you live in Canada, the best source of Armenian wines is kinedoun.com) and come with us on another enjoyable journey to the ancient world of wine.